fall (in love)

summer is leaving, but she left us a gift on her way out

hawaii nei // Ua Mau ke Ea o ka Aina i ka Pono

hole to heaven

my someday

someday used to be such a comforting word. it was a promise and a hope. when i said it i believed it. someday now is scary. it reminds me of things. so i have a new someday. and its exciting. my someday is an actual date. a someday that next year will be today. or tomorrow. 6 months is my new someday. and i cant wait.

tipping point

i like how surfing is beautiful. i like how there is beauty in everything almost collapsing around you and somehow its all working out and looking pretty. all things should be like that

this time last year

south shore, oahu, queens. i miss this wave as much as anything. a little corner of reef that was carved out for me. earned by sitting there for hours, staring at the sun and waiting for one to slip through the crowds. the smile on my face says it all. i love this place so much.

even out here // she's on my mind // even out here // someday ill be fine